The baffling success of Vienna’s Christmas markets – Technologist

LETTER FROM VIENNA

Judging by the number of buses parked along the Ring, the boulevard that encircles Vienna’s city center, it’s safe to say that the 2024 Christmas market season is shaping up to be another success in the Austrian capital. The mulled wine and souvenir stands are packed with tourists from all over Europe, drawn by what the Chamber of Commerce dubbed “the world’s Christmas city” in its season launch press release, issued in mid-November.

For six weeks – most of Vienna’s Christmas markets close on December 23 – Austrians will try to forget the struggles facing their small country: a two-year recession, increasing job cuts and the steady rise of the far-right, which will soon govern in five of the country’s nine states. Instead, they’ll be indulging in their favorite December pastime: drinking a hot, sweet alcoholic beverage of uncertain composition in the cold.

In Austria, the traditional mulled wine has been replaced by “Christmas punsch.” This drink has little in common with the punch known in France; it’s essentially heated alcohol – practically any kind – mixed with fruit juice or tea and spices. It is best consumed in moderation, not only because of its alcohol content, but also because of its potential side effects on digestion.

While most Christmas markets in France are mainly about buying presents, Austrians see theirs as a meeting place. Colleagues, friends and families gather there after work, as night falls. Despite the reputation of Vienna’s inviting cafés, in December the locals surprisingly prefer to stand around in the freezing cold, sipping stomach-churning concoctions to the tune of relentless Christmas carols.

‘It’s all about the shoes’

Without insulated boots, it’s impossible to endure this way of life without wanting to warm up after 15 minutes. “It’s all about the shoes,” a French colleague who had adapted perfectly to life in Austria once told me, mocking my choice of ankle boots. With Austria experiencing one of Europe’s biggest inflationary surges, you now need to budget at least €5 for a mulled wine or punsch, plus an equally steep €5 deposit for a mug that is often far from aesthetically pleasing.

In its pre-season survey, the Vienna Chamber of Commerce informed us that “71% of Viennese” plan “at least one visit” to one of the city’s 14 Christmas markets, making Vienna one of the world’s densest cities for Christmas markets. To accompany their punsch, they generally enjoy, in order of preference: hot chestnuts, roasted almonds and langos, a fried garlic flatbread, traditionally Hungarian but popular throughout the former Austro-Hungarian empire.

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